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Hi all,

I have a device that needs 5v DC - the supplied adaptor is broken (tested with a meter to confirm) The info. on that one was this:-

Output: 5V, 2000mA

I have another adaptor that has this info.

Output: 3V 80mA

The 3V adaptor outputs a reading of 4.5v on a meter

So do you think this one will do the job? Its not over powering, just under - I am more concerned with the much lower 80mA - Will this be an issue? It's not used to recharge a device but to just power it.

TIA

P.S - I don't know how much mA the device requires/draws - There is nothing in the manual or on the device

Hi charlie
I'm no electronics expert but that adapter would be a bit underpowered probably get to hot and die fast (drawing to much)also very important you need also to check the polarity of the adapter socket if + and - is the same you need something slightly above 200ma though don't quote me on this LOL .
Polarity is also next to where it tells you the voltage and current draw ma it's a round symbol (O sort of thing

you might be able to wire it to your a usb cable but google it first lol

Thanks, just tried it anyway and it does not work - the lights are on but no one home. There just is not enough juice, I guess I was pushing it with 80mA - that is must be too low. - All ok on the polarity of the plug, I checked 1st that it matched the required (center + / outer - )

Going to hunt around in the garage for another adaptor.

Have you not got an old usb style adaptor you can just cut the end off .all are 5v just make shure polarity is ok
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

yeah Mitre's right have done this on many things I think if I remember right usb is 5v up to 500ma
cut usb cable use red + and blacks N the other 2 wires you can cut off .

Thanks guys, just found a 5v 2500mA adaptor in the garage, it works fine. Was going to do like you said, done it before but no need now. I do sometimes forget about the power draw and focus too much on the voltage - Doh

Charlie wrote:Thanks guys, just found a 5v 2500mA adaptor in the garage, it works fine. Was going to do like you said, done it before but no need now. I do sometimes forget about the power draw and focus too much on the voltage - Doh

A bit late from me but just a thought Charlie, I have fried equipment using off-the-shelf generic power packs because of incompatibilities that aren't always immediately obvious.
Some equipment requires a regulated voltage input where a drift of more than say 5% may be critical to safe operation.
Also some power adaptors are full-wave rectification DC and other are only ½ wave rectification. Having only half-wave rectification can cause AC hum on any audio devices unless the output is heavily smoothed. You can usually tell if the original power pack was ½ wave by a dotted line ----- whereas a fullwave device shows a continuous line ____ and of course the voltage and current rating.

Thanks @Trashcooky for the extra info, I did not know about the other info you posted, apart from using a regulated adaptor. Which I always use, unless the device that requires power has a certain range, ie 9v-12v.

Cheers

@Trashcooky nice info
I'm more of a plug and pray sort of guy

Hi @Trashcooky, you obviously know your stuff!

You can usually tell if the original power pack was ½ wave by a dotted line ----- whereas a fullwave device shows a continuous line ____ and of course the voltage and current rating.

Most of the power adaptors I've got show both a dotted and continuous line on the spec label... does that mean they are both full and half wave compatible?

Regards

Excel